The Corded One

Corded petticoats are a great way of adding a lot of extra size to your skirts without the weight of more and more petticoats. One corded petticoat will add about as much as three of four standard petticoats. So, using one helps reduce bulk at the waist. The corded petticoat is the pre-cursor to the cage petticoat (or hoop skirts as they can be known). As skirts started getting wider, women were coming up with ways of reducing the number of petticoats. A corded one is quite easy to make, but very very time consuming and requires a lot of patience. Mine has taken months to finish and I really had to break it up with some other fun sewing in the meantime.

But onto how I made it!

Materials:

• Cotton – I used an old 100% cotton double bed sheet. It’s quite a thick cotton and I’m glad I went with something sturdy as the cord can poke through.
  
• Cording – I chose to buy fine sisal string from my local hardware store (Bunnings). It was a massive roll and very cheap. The only problem I did have was that the thickness does sometimes vary. I just worked with it. (The one on the right in the picture)
  
• Thread – A large roll of white thread, maybe two. You will probably need it.
• Zipper foot for your sewing machine
• Patience – endless patience

Start by stitching the sides of the sheet together to form one long tube. Then fold in half wrong sides together and press (iron) the fold. This will be the bottom of your petticoat.

Put the folded bottom on your machine and lay the cord into the fold, using your fingernails to push it in tightly. With your zipper foot attached, start stitching beside the cord. As you continue around the tube, stuff more cord in and use your fingernails to push it in next the previous row of cord. You are sewing in a spiral.

Continue doing this until you have enough rows for your section. Trim off your cord and end the section.

Measure up from this section and mark where you want your next section to start (mine is about 5cm apart). Stitch around your line and then start again with the cord, spiralling up for the section.

It’s up to you how many rows and how many sections you do. Just continue until you are happy with the shape you are getting and the length. My petticoat starts with a section of 40 rows, a 5cm (or 2 inch) gap followed by 20 rows. Then another 5cm gap and 10 rows, with another gap and five rows, and finally another gap with five rows.

Once you are finished your rows or cording, trim the top of your petticoat down to the desired length. Now you need to decide how you will be doing your waistband. I have seen ones on a yoke, a waistband or a drawstring. I tried a yoke first, which then fit really badly (too big). I then decided to gather the petticoat to a waistband and use a drawstring to tie it up. But it really is up to you how you go about finishing the waist. The only thing to remember is that it should only hit at about mid-calf length – it needs to be shorter than your next layers of petticoat which in turn need to be shorter than your outer gown.

How to: 1890s hat

Back in June of this year, I made a new 1890s boater style hat. This one was made out of some lovely turquoise cotton velveteen that I had in my stash. Fortunately, throughout the process, I took a number of photos to show how exactly I made it. And thus, we have a photo tutorial. I should mention straight up, that this is entirely sewn by hand.

1. First off, inspiration image

2. Next up, creating the pattern:

2a. I found a saucer from the kitchen that I liked the size of to be the top piece of my hat. I traced around it.

2b. I then drew another even circle around this for my hat brim.

2c. I measured around edge of the sauce with a tape measure to work out how long the crown should be. I drafted it up as a straight strip and cut it out in paper too.

2d. Once I had all the pattern pieces cut out, I lightly taped them together to test the size, shape and fit of the hat. Yes, I did put this on my head.

3. Pattern Pieces. I then cut out my pieces in buckram, my fashion fabric and mull layer. For the mull, I use a bamboo wadding that I picked up at my local fabric store, but you could use anything. This just give the hat a nice padded finish and helps cover the buckram nicely.

The buckram layer and the mull layer are cut without seam allowance (accept for an overlap on the hat crown), but I added approximately 1.5cm of seam allowance when cutting the fashion layer of the fabric. Make sure to cut two of the brims in the fashion fabric and mull.

4. Creating the hat frame:

4a. I first stitched the hat crown together to make it the right size to fit the top.

4b. Then I whip stitched hat wire to the edges of each piece - around the outer edge of the hat brim, the outer edge of the hat top and both edges of the crown.

4c. I then sat the hat top on the crown and whip stitched the top to crown.

4d. I then tacked down mull layer over every piece of the hat. I also whip the two edges of the brim mull so that they cover the wire edge as well as the edge where the hat top joins the hat crown.

5. Covering the hat

5a. I then stretched the fashion fabric over the top of the hat and pinned it in place on the sides. Next was to stitch this down with a tight back stitch, removing the pins as you go.

5b. I then lay one layer of the hat brim fabric over the brim frame and pinned it in place. I folded it over to the other side and used a hell of a lot of pins to pin it in place.

5c. Next was to stitch this down to the mull layer with a whip stitch. After stitching, I also snipped in between the stitches to help the fabric lay flat.

5d. I then smoothed over the other side of the brim with the fashion fabric and pinned it in place. Next was to tuck the raw edges under so that the hat edges match and pinned (with many many pins again) in place.

5e. Next I stitched the edges together using a straight whip stitch so that the tiny stitches when pulled disappear as much as possible. These stitches need to be close together to get a good finish.

5f. With the edges of the brim matching, I snipped into the seam allowance of the fabric through both layers.

5g. I then pinned in the fashion fabric hat crown with the raw edge folded under. The centre back is also folded so that you have a clean edge to stitch.

5h. Again, tiny straight whip stitches join the seam.

5i. I then folded the bottom of the hat crown to the inside of the hat and stab stitched it down through all the layers. 

5j. Next is the really fun part. I pinned down the hat brim to the inside of the hat. You want the seam allowance of the brim fabric on the inside of the hat. Then I stitched it down with a stab stitch. I warn you, this is rather awkward. 

5k. I then cut a length of cotton twill tape to fit the inside of the hat. I whipped this in place on the hat brim. You won't be able to see this when the hat is worn. Historically, hats weren't lined in fabric, but you could choose to line yours with a hat crown stitched to a hat top in a cotton and whip it into place where I stitch the twill tape. This is easier (and lazier) to do. 

6. Decoration. The last step is to decorate your hat as you see fit. One thing to remember, historically feathers and flowers were both used, but never together. I did have feathers in my stash to match this hat but I decided I wanted to go with the berries look. I had these in my stash and accompanied them with some white flowers. 

The hat then just perches on your hair. I like to go for a jaunty angle. 

Corset Tutorial - The Pretty Housemaid

Next on the agenda is a corset tutorial. I know a lot of cosplayers are confused about corsetry and how you would go about making your own corset. For a start the advantages in making your own is that it will be custom fitted to your shape, meaning that it has the potential to be the most comfortable corset ever. It will also flatter your figure and work with your body type. So if you have a low waist or high waist (like me) making your own corset may be the way to go. And while it can seem daunting, it's something that you can learn. I certainly have. My first corset, back in 2007 was straight from a simplicity pattern. It didn't fit too great but I'm glad that I made it because it set me on the path to making many corsets that I love wearing.

The latest, an 1890s corset. And for you, a full tutorial of how to go about making a corset. I hope this helps. And please keep in mind that the same principles apply for making most periods and shapes of corsetry.

PATTERN:
In this instance, I chose to use a pattern from a historical costuming book which is made of patterns taken from extant museum pieces - Jill Salen 'Corsets'. The particular corset I chose is called "The Pretty Housemaid" and is an 1890s corset. I chose this particular one as I needed a new corset for my suffragette costume.

When making a corset you need to take into account the final silhouette that you are trying to achieve. Different periods give completely different shapes which can also be especially important for character costuming.

First up, I photocopy out the corset from the book so that I have something to work with.

Next, is sizing up the corset. Measure yourself at bust, waist and hip. It can also help to know the height between bust waist and hip however you may just prefer to adjust this after the first mock up.

I blow up the pattern pieces to match the scale and then measure each piece at bust, waist and hip. These patterns have no seam allowance, so at this point it is a simple edge to edge measure. I then deduct 10cm from each of my measurement (lacing gap and squish allowance) and divide the measurements in half (as you are drafting only half of the corset). I then work out the difference and divide this amount amongst the corset pieces. I try to aim for an even devision.

I then draft this onto my photocopy pieces and add in seam allowance. To ensure that the horizontal points of each pice match, measure straight out from the point and then redraw the bottom or top edge.

To size up the hip piece, I slashed and spread the pattern. This ensures that the angles of the edges do not become skewed. 

MOCKING UP
A mock up is where you test your pattern with some scrap fabric to make sure that it is correct. You don't want to waste your pretty fashion fabric, and it can take a few mock ups to get the pattern correct. I use leftover scraps from previous projects to do my mock up. The most important thing is that you do not use fabric with any stretch or give. A corset should be structured.

I cut out each pattern piece and run them together. I generally do two layers so that I have enough fabric to make some quick boning channels. I put some pieces of boning in each one (generally cable ties) so that I can get a good idea of how the final corset will fit and provide support.

To lace the corset, I sew in a lacing piece that I use on each mock up (photo below). It is simply a piece of twill fabric with eyelets and lacing.

I then make marks on the fabric of my mock up with a texta of the changes that I need to make to my pattern.

I then revise my pattern and if necessary do another mock up. I believe in this particular case, I did two mock ups before I was happy with the pattern. However I have in the past had to do four mock ups until I was satisfied. Sometimes the pattern will squish me more than I anticipated and I will need to take it in. But that's why you do mock ups!

Once I am happy with my pattern I then cut out my fabric. I cut:

• 1 pair of each pattern piece in outer fabric
• 1 extra pair of the centre back and centre front patterns in outer fabric
• 1 pair of the remaining pattern pieces in your lining fabric
• 2 pairs of each pattern piece in a firm cotton fabric (I sometimes use cotton scraps as this layer won't be seen)

MAKING UP - INSERTING A  SPLIT BUSK

Victorian corsets use split busks for the front opening and support. In this instance I am using a spoon busk which provides more stomach support - great if you have flabs and not abs ;) but the same technique will work for a straight busk.

Get your centre front pieces and split them up so that you have each side. Layer the pieces with the right side of the fashion fabric facing the right side of the fashion fabric lining. Then layer a piece of the cotton interlining on the outside of each.

Then working with the tab side, place it along the edge of the lining for the right side and draw a line marking the edge of each tab. Line up the fabric and stitch the seam, stopping and back tacking where marked. On the left side, stitch a straight seam with no stops.

Open out the right side piece and finger press the seam open. Slide the busk in place between the seam and fold over to close.

The busk tabs will now be sitting on the outside of the seam.

Pull the fabric taught and pin in place along the edge of the busk. This is where you will now stitch the busk in place.

Using a zipper foot, stitch along the edge of the busk.

 For the left side, line up where you want the busk spikes to sit and mark each place.

 Using an awl, push through the fabric to create a hole to insert the busk. You should never cut a hole as it weakens the spot. And awl will push aside the threads and maintain strength.

Fit the busk in place but pushing the spikes through each hole. And then as before, use your zipper foot to stitch alongside the busk.

You have now inserted the busk and can move onto creating the rest of the corset. 

MAKING UP - PANELS AND CHANNELS

Next, I sew the panels together - the single lining layer by itself and the fashion layer with the two interlining layers sitting flat against the wrong side.

I then go through each one and stitch down the seam boning channels. I do so by pushing the seam allowance under and topstitching the width of my boning (plus a smidge of room to fit it).

I then go in and add the remaining boning channels. I like to add a length of cotton behind each extra boning channel to give it a bit more fabric between the boning and myself. This is my personal preference and not required. However, you may actually need to do this if like the second image, your boning channels cross seam lines.

Next up, I sew the centre back panels together with the fashion fabric right sides together and the lining fabrics on the outer. I then open up the seam and understitch the seam allowance to the inside.

I then press the pieces back together and stitch the outer boning channel and then the eyelet channel.

Next, I attach the centre back piece to the middle section, making sure to keep the lining out of the way of the seam. I do the same with the centre front and then add in the remaining boning channels.

MAKING UP - WAIST TAPE
The next step is what helps keep your corset in shape and firm - the waist tape. I use a firm cotton twill tape that is about 2 - 3cm wide. You simply stitch it in from the back panel, laying it across the waist level of the corset and in place again in the front panel. I simply back stitch over where it sits matching up the stitching with the outer boning casing.

MAKING UP - LINING
Next, I lay the lining with the right sides to the lining of the centre front and back and stitch the seam. Turn the corset right side out and line up the edges and seam allowances. I generally pin this running the pins towards the edge for the binding to be sewn on.

MAKING UP - BIAS BINDING
There is nothing more professional on a corset than having matching bias binding along the top and hem. And it really is simple to make your own.

Simply lay out your fabric and fold one corner down to meet the other salvage. This will give you the perfect 45 degree bias angle. Measure 7cm from the folded edge and cut strips(also cut along the fold).

Next you need to join your strips so that you have one continuous length. The ends of your strips will each have a 45 degree angle. The easiest way to get this right is the line them up on a flat surface with the right side up, then flip the right strip down so that the edges match and stitch along the seam.

Open out, and press the seam open.

Next, fold the strip of bias in half and press again. This will give you one raw edge and one folded edge.

Sew the folded edge of the bias binding down along the bottom edge of your corset, using a 1cm seam allowance and making sure that you catch the lining in as well. This is why I pinned it together earlier.

Wrap the bias around the seam to the inside and whip stitch the folded edge in line with the row of stitching. At the ends, fold in the fabric and stitch up with a tiny ladder stitch.

MAKING UP - EYELETS
I next work on the eyelets. While you can choose to use larger eyelets, I prefer the smaller ones as it allows for closer lacing and the eyelets are less likely to pull out.

I mark out where the eyelets will be going with pins first so that you can move and shuffle them around to your hearts content. I tend to go for 2.5cm - 3.5cm apart for each one. I then mark out each eyelet hold with a pen.

 Now comes the fun part. Use your awl to gouge out a hole. Again, you don't want to cut the hole as this weakens the fabric and may cause the eyelet to pull out eventually.

Push through the first side of the eyelet, add the top and hammer together using the eyelet press which should be provided with most kits. I use a piece of hardwood covered with a cotton tea towel to hammer onto. If your timber is too soft, the eyelets will leave holes in it and you will have trouble getting them out (learnt this the hard way). The piece of cloth over the hardwood is so that the fabrics don't accidentally catch. Bash in all your eyelets.

 MAKING UP - BONING
 I use a combination of boning - sprung steel, plastic boning and cable ties. I buy my steels and plastic boning from corset supply shops, but the cable ties come from JayCar who sell long heavy duty ones.

Cut your boning to length, sand back your corners (the plastic stuff) so that they are rounded (to keep them from working through the fabric and jabbing you in tender places later) and insert into your channels.

Repeat the binding process on the top of the stays making sure that you stitch carefully so that you don't catch any of your boning with your machine. It's a great way to break a needle and send it flying.

LACING
The final step is lacing the corset up. Make sure that you choose a strong cotton lacing that grips well. Ribbon will not cut it and especially satin ribbon which will slip when you try to lace in.

I mark out with a pin where the waist of my corset is. This is where the lacing will form "bunny ears". We use the bunny ears when lacing so that you are pulling at the waist to lace rather than top to bottom. It is much easier to lace yourself when you pull from the top down and the bottom up to the waist. Then it is simply a matter of cross lacing your cord down.

When you get to the waist, don't cross over and instead go down one and then keep crossing to the bottom. Knot off the bottom, and you are done.

AND THE FINISHED PRODUCT:

Gotta say, this is the most comfortable corset I have ever made for myself. It gave me no trouble at all wearing it all day and I really love the shape it gave me. It helps that I made if for my bust as it is now unlike my older corsets which no longer fit because I have had a bit of a growth spurt in the bust.

I am planning a new straight seamed Victorian corset soon, so will document it as well to show that these principles really do apply across all corset building. I hope this helps people understand that corsets aren't really that hard to make. It's all about getting the fit right and making something that works for you.