Corset - Purple Jacquard

But first I need to finish what I’ve already gotten started. Last weekend I started pulling together a new corset. It is made from beautiful purple jacquard ($20 per meter – but not too bad when you only need 80cm for a corset). Last Saturday I got all the pieces sewn together and the boning inserts added. At least this time I kind of knew what I was doing. (I learnt from my first corset that I needed to take it in over the bust so that my boobs would sit nicely into the corset – bulging at the top). Then I added all the boning casings and bound the top.



For my boning casings I just used bias binding. Sewn in the correct place and you can wedge the boning down nicely. Just have to be careful that there are not joins in the casing – it makes it awfully difficult trying to get the boning through. I also put some of the boning casings on the inside of the corset, so that I would not detract from the looks of the beautiful fabric. Then last night, I added the eyelets. I have 12 down each side on the back (I space them at about an index finger apart) and 13 down the centre front. I wanted a different look this time, instead of a busk happening I wanted lacing. I used gold eyelets – pretty against the purple. 

And then just this Friday afternoon, I finished by adding all the boning – wedging a few pieces along-side the eyelets to add stiffening. I finished by binding along the bottom of the corset and adding the lacings. I used 4 laces, lacing from the top and bottom to tie in the centre. It makes it much easier to do the tight lacing as you only have to work on half of the body at a time and it is actually closer to historical as they used to do this traditionally. In the end, I did put in a modesty panel at the front because this is the area that gets pulled in the most with the tight lacing. In the picture I didn't really tight lace the corset - there was nobody available to help with the lacing. (The front is the one with the purple lacing. I did originally want black but I could not get any. The purple is only temporary.)

Overall, I am happy with the look. But I think next time I need to add about an inch to the bottom of the corset. It’s just because I have a high waist. On standard block patterns, the corset would sit low enough at the hip. But hey, it turned out much better than my first one. And I didn’t even need to use the instructions this time.

Medieval - Winter White

Well, here I am again to talk about my sewing. I have had a really good run lately. I had a lovely day off work last Tuesday and managed to get into Spotlight. Low and behold they had a fabric clearance on. I managed to get some orange cotton fabric with a slub for a medieval dress. I was so excited it cost me $3 per metre. I haven’t mentioned this yet, but my cousin and I are going to this medieval tournament in a few weeks time. Should be fun. Anyway, I am making the orange dress to wear during the day. And then, we are also going to the mask ball of the tournament on the Saturday night. To which I am also making a dress. Originally I was thinking a nice emerald green colour, but it turned out that I found this winter white (kind of a cream colour) look-a-like linen. Even better it only cost $2 per meter. It seems that I intend to be very ambitious for this tournament because not only am I making the dresses, but I will also make my mask for that ball and if I get enough time a full cape to go with it.

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Medieval dress number 1 is now completed. Turns out that I had to take it in a bit at the back neckline and waist to fit it nicely, but I am rather pleased with the look. Originally the dress is supposed to be made with a contrast fabric at the centre front, the inner sleeve and the yoke pieces, but having found the fabric so cheap, and nothing else to really work with it, I didn’t add a contrast.

Unfortunately the fabric is rather see-through so I have made undergarments for the outfit. I was researching some costume websites recently and found an image of the undergarments worn by Kiera Knightly in King Arthur (under the blue dress). Basically it is a full length cotton shift. Almost a regency style with the skirt pieces gathered into the bodice. So this is what I decided to make as my undergarments too, as it does not destroy the line of the dress as well as stockings. (Well it is July and rather freezing cold at night-time). I have also made a cream voile cape to wear over the top. Not really a warm sort of garment, but it will provide wind protection, and look pretty over my outfit. Note to self - must remember to be careful with hood so as not to destroy my mask. (I used the leftover voile to make the chemise.)

And the final touch on my complete costume is the mask. I decided to introduce royal purple (kind of matches my hair colour at the moment) with the cream and gold. I purchased the base of the mask from crazy clarks for a nice cheap $2. I decided to go with it because the paper-mache it is made from will paint easier and allow easier attachments (glue, needle holes etc.) compared to a plastic mask from Spotlight.

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This was what I wore to the masked ball. And even though the cape was only made of cotton voile, I was so glad that I had it as it was freezing outside at night time. Though I am rather happy with how it all turned out. The mask complemented the outfit well, and brought a bit of colour to the complete ensemble. In the end I decided to change my hair, I just pulled the front section back with a couple bobby pins and a shell clip to match my earrings.

For my footwear, I ended up wearing my Victorian boots. Not really historically accurate, but they kept my feet warm and I didn’t have anything more appropriate. I looked in all the shoe shops for something that would work, but could not get anything.

Puss In Boots

My final puss in boots outfit...

I did make a few final changes to my original plan. I made a pair of brown tights as the legs instead of black. I figured that otherwise,there would be too much black in the costume and I would disappear into the night. Also the headpiece I made, I ended up changing. One I tired it on, it just looked wrong. Too much like a bear head. So instead I attached black cardboard to
a black headband and arranged my hair around the ears so that the headband could not be seen.
For the shirt, I used a robin hood type of style and pattern. The only difference I made to the patterns was that I didn't do the lacing up at the front near the collar and instead of elastic or a cuff at the wrist, I thread red ribbon through and then pulled it tight and laced it up my arm.

The tail looked awesome, however I made it a bit too long and it dragged on the floor too much. Meaning that by the end of the evening there was food, dirt and something sticky I would rather not investigate on the end. Note to self - shorter tail next time.

The hat was another complex part of my costume. It didn't take overly long to make, it was just annoying in that I had a lot of trouble trying to get the wire into the casing for the brim of the hat. Turned out my wire was too thick. Once I got the thinner stuff in there it was smooth sailing. Small change that I made to the pattern was that instead of turning under the brim edge
to create the casing for the sire, I used black bias binding. Could probably have used red and it would have looked really good.

My favourite part though, was the makeup. I based it off a makeup design from Andrew Lloyd Webbers' Cats The Musical. I am a makeup artist, so that did help me in doing the makeup. Thank God. I probably would not have done a cat character if I could not have the awesome makeup. It was surprising, I could not tell that I was wearing it, aside from the looks on everyone's faces.

I used a Kryolan white pancake makeup all over my face and neck as a base. I then used brown powders and bronzer to add in the facial shading under my cheekbones, at my forehead and in a round shape at my eye. I then used brown pencils to draw in the impression of whiskers and fur. I then applied black mascara and drew in my new cat eyebrows with a black liquid liner and brush. I also painted in a almond shape on my upper lash line, and a few millimeters below my lower lashline. I then painted in my nose and drew just above my top lip, and add whisker spots on my upper lip. I then applied very thick elongated black fake eyelashes. Surprisingly, it did not take me too long to apply. And the result is as you see.

Dad's Mad Hatter

As I mentioned, the central theme of my fairytale party was a mad hatter tea party. This was my dad. Lets get into the making of the costume. I was actually surprised that it did not take me a lot longer to make the costume. The pants were simple, just an elastic waist pants. And the shirt underneath was just a regular long sleeve workshirt. The tie I bought from a discount
outlet (I wanted something that would clash rather well) and the vest was simple.

The hat was another matter all together. After tracking down the foam I needed to make the hat, I thought it would be smooth sailing from here. Unfortunatly not, I had chosed a soft charmeuse satin to make the exterior of the hat with. I did want to use a heavier satin, but could not get it in the right colour. The biggest thing that posed a problem was that the satin kept slipping. I stitched it to the foam, but still found that it would slip out of alignment and thus out of the seams. I'm actually rather happy with the way it turned out, I ended up getting the seams in (with much unpicking and frustration). It looks great but next time I make that hat, I will think twice about the fabric I use.

Fairytale Party

Well, I had my fairytale dinner party. It was a lot of exhausting work, but so much fun. I had a total of 14 people at my party, quite a lot of hungry mouths to feed. But I was so glad that everyone took the initiative and dressed up. All my costumes came out well. I made the Fairy, The Mad Hatter, The Fairy Godmother from Cinderella and of course my puss in boots outfit. Which you will see in another of my entries.

My decorations were inspired by fairy tales. I had a yellow brick road running up the driveway lit with tea light candles in brown paper bags. The trick is to fill the bottom of the bags with rocks or sand to hold them out. Although, as is the case with paper and fire, a few bags got a bit burnt. My yellow brick road was made of bright yellow wrapping paper cut into rectangles and stuck down onto the ground. And once you arrived at the end of the road I had a mad hatter tea party set up (hence the Mad Hatter costume). I spruced up the area with some black and red crepe paper chains, and some large playing cards stuck to the wall. I also had 3 paper Chinese lanterns set up above the table. Leftover from a birthday party, I painted them with red and black acrylic paint with hearts, spades and clubs. And a light bulb running into them added light to the space. I then had 3 tables joined together to run down the length of the area, seats surrounding. Each place was set with knife, fork and spoon, and an individual tea cup as a place setting. I painted the teacups to have a heart, spade, diamond and club and with a small tea light candle, to light up the table space.

To spice up the evening a bit, I also had games for everyone to play. I tired to keep with the fairytale theme, but I could not resist having a pass the parcel. My centre prize was a my little pony. And on most of the layers I add a forfeit (something embarrassing that the unwrapper must do). I also arranged a malteasers game, with straws (kind of a suck and blow type
thing). We played a team fairytale questions game and then fairytale celebrity heads. I know games seem kind of childish, but the whole evening was designed to be fun and reminiscent of your childhood.

Overall, I had a fantastic time. Mind you, I was exhausted the next day...